(Ph: Hans Moritz)
MOSCHINO [TV] H&M
This collaboration, which goes to stores in early November (8th November, TLV fashion mall in Tel Aviv, Israel) is Scott’s most theatrical, and probably most lucrative, project yet. It has as much to say about consumer culture as it did about hype. “I hate the idea of exclusivity in fashion,” said Scott. “I’m all about the democratisation, about reaching people who can’t normally afford this stuff.”
This collection is all about blending Americana motifs with nostalgia and bling. Stonewashed denim, black leather and jersey tracksuits came covered in logos and accessorised with Moschino’s signature gilt jewellery. Bags are shaped like condom wrappers. Oversized gold padded jackets are paired with yellow minis in the same fabric. The focus is fun, and the silhouette cartoonish.
The real question is: what will sell? A scrum formed at the pop-up shop that opened moments after the designer’s bow. The gold jewellery – a large logo choker (£79.99), logo earrings (£49.99) – the gold padded jacket, a yellow padded skirt and the condom bags caused the most fuss, particularly because they referenced Moschino’s heyday.
In today’s age of ubiquitous collaborations, it is easy to forget that H&M was the first to bring designer design level product to a wider mass audience that preserved the DNA of the collaborative designer and brand. Thus a Balmain military coat in the fall 2015 launch or a Lanvin jacket from fall 2010 were essentially Balmain and Lanvin coat and jacket respectively but made with less expensive materials to be available at a lower price point. It’s the opposite of a high fashion brand making a streetwear item like a sweatshirt in high quality materials and marketed at luxury level pricing.
“I am the king of pop culture so there was always going to be some pop in Moschino [tv] H&M. I love a logo mash-up and the branding made me think of mashing up MTV and Moschino. When I was a kid, MTV was my window to the world — it’s where I saw fashion and music blending. The iconography of MTV is seared into my brain. Then, I wanted some cartoon couture, and Disney is pure pop culture iconography. Being able to mix Disney characters with the Moschino logo took things to the next level.” says Scott.
Note: Available from November 8th, TLV fashion mall in Tel Aviv, Israel